Tarte automne-été aux trois fruits (Summer-Fall triple pie)

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Three fruits and a nut. Still Summer, already Fall.
A dessert out of this world.

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Pâte sablée.

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Poires au vin (drunken pears).

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Figues fraîches.

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Caramel coated walnuts.

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You’ve counted only 2 fruits ? True. There is raspberry jam hidden somewhere.

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A lighning of green tea : matcha éclairs

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Des éclairs au thé matcha. A flash of light in the middle of rainy season. Un éclair is a lightning during a storm. And this dessert…

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Green tea version.

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Same crust as the petits choux (recipe here), but longer.

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The filling is very Japanese at the base with matcha (green tea for ceremony) and shiro an (paste made of white beans and sugar), with gives a matcha an (green tea cream).

mame

About this paste.

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… I creamed it with coconut cream, and added a little brandy for flavor. They look rustic as it’s a week-day snack so I didn’t smoothen my cream with the sieve and I didn’t pipe the dough. Do that for guests !

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On top, sugar and matcha green tea.

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They call me ‘shoe cream’… Puff cake blues.

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Les choux à la crème are probably the most successful French cake in Japan. Chou was easy to pronounce, but à la crème was too long. Everybody knew that meant cream. So the name became シュークリーム shu-kuri-mu chou cream, which is also how they say “shoe cream”.

Well we can see them everywhere from the luxury hotel tea room to the discount kombini (convenience store). They can be extraordinary, great, good, meh, abominable. The choice is huge. Some stands prepare them fresh all day.
I still find home-made fresher.

First let’s make the little choux. Then a cream at local taste including anko (azuki bean sweet paste) an ingredient borrowed from wagashi (Japanese tea sweets).

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Simple, 125 g of water, 25 g of oil, 80 g of flour. I included about 2 eggs, a little vanilla extract and sugar.

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Baked at 200 degrees, 25 minutes.

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I really love the inside still wet. So I don’t fill them, I keep the cream on the side.

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I passed boiled azuki beans through a sieve to get the creamy texture, added sugar and a little brandy. That’s koshian (‘passed’ bean paste, recipe here). More about it here.

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The whip (here veg’) plus anko bean paste mix. It is very popular now.

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A la recherche du baba de Stohrer…

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Maybe it looked like that…
I am not an historian, just playing the costumed dessert game. And I have really love this retro version that I made not very sweet. It’s much lighter and fresher than the average baba.

For recipes to bake the baba/kouglof : click here.

The oldest pastry shop in Paris

In the year of grace 1725, Louis XV married Marie Leszczynska,
daughter of King Stanislas of Poland.His pastry chef Stohrer follows her in Versailles.

Five years later, in 1730, NICOLAS STOHRER opened his bakery
at 51 rue Montorgueil in the second arrondissement of Paris.

In its kitchen, where desserts were invented for the Great Court,king’s delights are still prepared.

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Thanks to a dry Polish brioche, the King Stanislas had brought back from a trip, Nicolas STOHRER invented the BABA.

Un baba. Un kouglof.

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The inside. It’s good fresh, but yes very soon, it’s stale.

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He enhanced the dry brioche by basting Malaga wine, flavored by saffron

The amber syrup : white wine, brown sugar, orange peel and saffron. A little Brandy to punch it up.

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Did they serve crème anglaise (vanilla custard) as a side ? That was very popular. And the orange, if they could afford the precious exotic fruit.

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