A la recherche du baba de Stohrer…

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Maybe it looked like that…
I am not an historian, just playing the costumed dessert game. And I have really love this retro version that I made not very sweet. It’s much lighter and fresher than the average baba.

For recipes to bake the baba/kouglof : click here.

The oldest pastry shop in Paris

In the year of grace 1725, Louis XV married Marie Leszczynska,
daughter of King Stanislas of Poland.His pastry chef Stohrer follows her in Versailles.

Five years later, in 1730, NICOLAS STOHRER opened his bakery
at 51 rue Montorgueil in the second arrondissement of Paris.

In its kitchen, where desserts were invented for the Great Court,king’s delights are still prepared.

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Thanks to a dry Polish brioche, the King Stanislas had brought back from a trip, Nicolas STOHRER invented the BABA.

Un baba. Un kouglof.

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The inside. It’s good fresh, but yes very soon, it’s stale.

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He enhanced the dry brioche by basting Malaga wine, flavored by saffron

The amber syrup : white wine, brown sugar, orange peel and saffron. A little Brandy to punch it up.

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Did they serve crème anglaise (vanilla custard) as a side ? That was very popular. And the orange, if they could afford the precious exotic fruit.

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Petit Jésus en brioche au safran, softy holiday pie


This dish screams : Christmas jingle bell…
It’s le Petit Jésus en culotte de velours (lit : Kid Jesus in velvet pants, which means a delight.)
Well, it’s le Petit Jésus in the sense of salami, dry sausage. A big one is prepared specially for Christmas Eve in Lyon and around, so it’s named le jésus .

gros jesus source wikipedia
Le « Jésus de Lyon » est le « cousin » de la rosette de Lyon. C’est un saucisson de grand diamètre, 10 cm. Il pèse environ 400 g et est réalisé à partir de viandes nobles triées et parées avec soin ; il fait l’objet d’une phase de maturation et d’affinage particulièrement importante pour la qualité gustative du produit fini. La matière première entrant dans la composition du produit est exclusivement de la viande et du gras dur de porc. Le Jésus de Lyon, pour être bien maintenu, est mis sous un filet qui donne une empreinte spécifique et une forme particulière de poire. Il doit sécher de longues semaines avant d’être vendu. On peut encore déguster un saucisson cru, ou à cuire. Truffé et pistaché le saucisson est bouilli avec des pommes de terre. Le saucisson brioché est un saucisson à cuire placé dans une pâte à brioche et cuit au four. Il se déguste sans accompagnement, coupé en tranches.
**** (they had not the English)****
The « Jésus of Lyon » is related to the “rosette de Lyon” sausage. It’s a large salami, 10 cm of diameter, about 400 g. It’s made of premium pork exclusively, specially aged during weeks. It is contained in a net that gives him a pear shape. It can be served raw, or cooked. With truffles and pistachio it’s boiled with potatoes. The “saucisson brioché” is baked in brioche dough. It’s eaten on its own, sliced.

I had a small one, a petit jésus. I baked it in buttery brioche.

OK, it looks like a yellow hippo… But the shape is secondary when it’s so yummy. The brioche is flavored with precious saffron.

This brandy tomato based sauce can be made more simply than the brown sauces. It’s even better.
Miam, miam…. it goes away very fast.

Fêtes . Dinners of Holiday. Many IDs, change of style.

A few ideas for holiday menus. Japan has a month to celebrate the end of the year with Bonenkai (funerals of the old year) parties. In other places, Yule, Noël, Xmas and New Year in many places. Add, yours…
I like trying different dishes and meal styles.

Take a hot cup of thé de Noël and enjoy :

Rétro Christmas, candlelight and rustic.

Simple appetizers.
Jambon en croute aux marrons (chestnut ham pie)
Provence’s style : 13 desserts of Christmas night
Nougat glacé (iced nougat)

Kani Nabe (crab hot pot)
Winter Japanese home parties are often nabe (hot-pots)
Japanese hot pot with Winter crab
Other nabe (hot pots) :
Nikomi Udon
Duck and veggie nabe
sukiyaki

Noël blanc
Everything white, and French flavors…
Full Menu White French Christmas
Boudin blanc (white pudding sausage was little people’s Xmas treat, DIY)
Blanc-Manger (Middle-Age style, not a dessert)
Canard aux airelles (duck with cranberry sauce)
Gateau Mont-Blanc (coconut Antilles’ whiteness)

A Japanese Christmas menu
chicken and sesame cooking class
marmalade and sesame wings
chicken slices with wine sesame sauce
tofu with wine sesame sauce
decorative potato sarada. (pote sarada)
sesame fruit cake

Mexican Navidad, Tamales
pickles and chicken tamales
yellow grits tamales
tamale pie

Islands
Christmas ham, from the Antilles (French Caribbean islands).
Petit jambon antillais (pineapple baked ham)
féroce d’avocat (cod fish spicy guacamole)

Classic French
potage Choisy
Le poulet de Gaston – Dijon chicken (mustard sauce)
bûche aux marrons glacés
Douceurs de beurre et marrons…

Osechi Ryori, a feast of good luck dishes for Japanese New Year, with the recipes. Click here.

Alsace influence. French and light.
Full Menu
Blinis with smoked salmon
Choucroute de la mer (seafood Sauerkraut)
Bûche forêt noire Blackforest log Yule cake
Bredele (season cookies)

Petit Jésus en brioche…
About this one, posts showing up soon :
Colorful first dish
Saucisson en brioche au safran (salami saffron pie)
Red wine red cabbage in rice cooker. The same in cocotte.
Chestnutty no-bake croquettes
Flocon de neige (streusel flocken-sahne). Berry Flockensahne.
Black sugar Nonnettes Kaki nonnettes. Mandarin nonnettes.

Empanada gallega de hokke con pasas

Abracadabra ! We’re in Spain, in Galicia and you can see the yellow sun in a blue sky. Es la empanada… Que rica !

Schluuuurrrp…. Really, that was a treat !

Patri of the blog, Asi Son Los Cosas, was our September 2012 Daring Bakers’ hostess and she decided to tempt us with one of her family’s favorite recipes for Empanadas! We were given two dough recipes to choose from and encouraged to fill our Empanadas as creatively as we wished!

So I’ve made this fish one and a dessert empanada (coming soon)


I’ve followed the recipe… mostly.

A few minor ingredient veriations. Mostly, I’ve used hokke (arabesque greenling) a Japanese fish instead of cod.

We get the fish lightly salted, for short term preservation. (more about it here)

Don’t forget to decorate it…

And to open a chimney. I’ve not used egg, but brushed with olive oil.

Fresh from the oven !

Empanada Gallega de bacalao con pasas
(my grandma’s empanada recipe with salted cod and raisins filling)

Source

Servings: 10 – (makes a 40cmx30cm square empanada or about a 35cm diameter round empanada).
The filling may sound a bit strange at first, but that’s until you taste it  If you like salted cod, I’m pretty sure you will like it like this.
Dough Ingredients:

5-1/3 cups (1280 ml) (750 gm) bread flour
2 cups (480 ml) of lukewarm water (about 85°F/30ºC), approximately
1 satchel (1 tablespoon) (15 gm) dry yeast or (1 oz) (30 gm) fresh yeast
2 teaspoons (10 ml) (11 gm) salt
4 tablespoons (60 ml) oil (you can use oil from the pan where you have cooked the filling)
1 large egg, for egg wash
Dough Directions:
Measure out all the ingredients.

Shift the flour into a big bowl and make a well in the middle. Rub the yeast in with your fingers.
In a small bowl, mix the water and the salt.
Now, using your fingers or a wooden spoon, start adding the water and mixing it with the flour-yeast mixture. Keep on working with your fingers or spoon until you have added enough water and all the flour has been incorporated and you have a messy ball of dough.
On a clean counter top, knead the dough for approximately 10 minutes
You could do all the above using a stand mixer, in that case mix the ingredients with the paddle attachment until mixed and then switch to a dough hook and knead on low for about 6 minutes.
Clean and oil the big bowl you used for mixing and place the kneaded dough in it. Cover it with a napkin or piece of linen and keep it in a warm, draught-free place for approximately 40 to 50 minutes.
Before rise
Rising
After rise
Once risen, turn the dough back into a floured counter and cut it in half. Cover one half with the napkin to prevent drying.

Spread the other half of the dough using a rolling pin. You can use a piece of wax paper over the counter, it will make it easier to move the dough around. Depending on the shape of your oven pan or cookie sheet, you will make a rectangle or a round.

Now, the thinness of the dough will depend on your choice of filling and how much bread you like in every bite. For your first time, make it about 3mm thin (about 1/10th of an inch) and then adjust from that in the next ones you make.
Filling Ingredients

400 gm (14 oz) chopped onion (approximately 1 big onion or 2 medium-sized ones)
2 garlic cloves
¾ cup (180 ml) Olive oil
300 gm (10½ oz) salted cod, washed and cleaned (you put it in fresh water 24 hours before, change the water four times)
100 gm (3½ oz) raisins
100 gm (3½ oz) cured ham or bacon (not smoked)
A few strands of saffron
Filling Directions:
Finely chop the onion and garlic.
Heat the oil in a skillet and add the onion and garlic, fry over medium heat until the onion is transparent (you do not want the onion to brown at all).

When vegetables are cooked, turn off the heat. Add the saffron and the raisins. Cut cod and ham (or bacon) in less than bite sized pieces, and add. Stir everything together.
Add salt as needed (we do this at the end because the amount of salt will depend on how salty your fish remains after the unsalting and how salty your cured ham or bacon is).
Allow to cool for at least half an hour before filling the empanada.
Assembling the empanada:
If you haven’t used wax paper, either lightly flour or line with wax paper your pan or tray.

Cover the base and sides with the dough. Using the rolling pin or a knife, cut the extra dough.
Place the filling, making sure it is cold and that all the base is covered. Using a hot filling will make the bottom layer of the empanada become soggy. Be careful to avoid adding too much oil from the filling, try to make it as “dry” as possible.

Start preheating your oven to moderate 350°F/180ºC/gas mark 4.
Take the other half of the dough and spread it out to the same or less thinness of the base. You can use a piece of wax paper for this too. Take into account that this “top” dough needs to be smaller around than the bottom, as it only needs to cover the filling.
If not using wax paper, move carefully the top to cover the filling. If using wax paper, transfer the dough, turn upside down, cover the filling and gently peel off the wax paper.
Using your fingers, join bottom and top dough, when you have gone all the way around, start pinching top and bottom together with your thumb and index finger and turning them half way in, that way you end up with a rope-like border. As a picture is worth a thousand words, please watch this video to see how it is done: http://youtu.be/CNpB7HkTdDk
When you are finished, make a 1 inch hole in the middle of the top layer. This will help hot air exit the empanada while it’s baking without breaking the cover.

You can use left-over dough to decorate the empanada, using rounds, bows, lines… let your imagination flow and make it pretty!

Using a fork, prick the top layer or, using scissors, make snips that go all the way through the top layer.
In a small bowl, beat an egg and add a tbsp of cold water. With the pastry brush, paint the top of the empanada with the egg wash.
Place the empanada in the oven and bake for about 45 minutes. Check that the bottom part is done.

Bourride de limande et hamaguri

Let’s go to Provence with a bourride.

That’s the yellow cousin of bouillabaisse.

The particularity is it is flavored and served with aïoli sauce.

Filets of flounder, marinating with green yuzu lime…

The big pot.

First a plate of soup.

Then vegetables and shellfish (hamaguri, orient clams).

And the flounder fish (limande).

Some more aïoli.